A walk through Sinan's Istanbul: light, scale and stillness

The university we graduated from is named after Mimar Sinan. Perhaps that is why, whenever we find the time in Istanbul, we like to walk back to his buildings. This is not a piece of architectural history. It is a personal route along which an interior architect looks for lessons that are still useful today.

Starting at Şehzade

There is a famous distinction attributed to Sinan himself: the Şehzade Mosque was his apprentice work, the Süleymaniye the work of a journeyman, and the Selimiye in Edirne his masterpiece. That makes Şehzadebaşı a fitting place to begin. Inside Şehzade, the central dome and the half domes that surround it on four sides make the space feel equally weighted in every direction. It is a clear lesson in the calm that symmetry can give an interior.

Süleymaniye: from courtyard to interior

The walk from Şehzade to Süleymaniye takes only a few minutes. What moves us most at Süleymaniye is the sequence before you even enter. From the busy street to the courtyard, from the courtyard to the portico and then beneath the dome, the noise drops, the light changes and the scale grows with each step. How you enter a space matters as much as the space itself. We still think about that sequence when designing the entrance to a home or the door of a shop.

Rüstem Pasha: a room above the crowd

Heading down from Süleymaniye towards Eminönü, even finding the stairs to the Rüstem Pasha Mosque among the shops of Tahtakale is an experience. The mosque sits above the market’s noise, on top of the shops. Climb the stairs and step inside, and the İznik tiles covering the walls and the quiet light take you somewhere else entirely. It is a powerful example of how stillness can be created in a small space, even within a dense urban fabric.

Mihrimah Sultan: walls woven from light

On another day we suggest visiting the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque at Edirnekapı. Its walls are opened up by countless windows, and the interior changes through the day with the direction of the light. Here we see that light can be used like a surface material, and that windows can be not just openings but the true texture of a space.

Sokollu Mehmed Pasha: using the slope

The Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in Kadırga stands on sloping ground and uses the slope rather than hiding it. You climb stairs to reach the courtyard, and the building settles into the land. We value this measured placement as much as its tiles: a difficult site is not an excuse for good design, but very often its source.

What to bring

A sketchbook and comfortable shoes are enough for this route. Instead of taking photographs, try pausing in each building to note the entrance, the direction the light comes from and how small or large you feel. Remember to check visiting hours and prayer times, and to stay quiet inside.